Wax Melter & Cappings Reducer & Honey Decandy Digital 7L
Model: 7BD - 7 litre Multipurpose Unit - Bee Keeping – Capping’s Reducer - Wax Cleaning – Honey Warming & more
Digital Temperature Controllers make higher product temperatures achievable and provide precise temperature control, fast reaction and intelligent operation allows the water jacket to be maintained at as high as 100℃ without rapid boiling, the controller will learn and cycle the heating element automatically to maintain temperature, simply set the required temperature up to 100℃ and the controller will do the rest, capillary style thermostats (dial type) capillary style thermostats are very good however slower reaction means the temperature can’t be set higher than 90 to ensure the water jacket doesn’t rapid boil form temperature runout.
Capping’s Reducer – Wax Cleaning – Capping’s Honey Recovery – 10kg Honey Warming – Bee’s Wax Candles & more
Recommended for 1-5 Bee Hives
Stainless Steel Product Taps.
Recommended for products up to 90℃
Dual outlet electric double boilers are perfect for melting down Beeswax Cappings, recovering honey, cleaning wax and liquefying candied honey a breeze!
Ideal for hobby or small business.
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There’s nothing better than an electric double boiler.
- 7 lt internal product chamber.
- 8 lt water jacket.
- Overall dimensions: H42cm x W30cm.
- Product chamber dimensions: H20cm x W22cm
- Stainless Steel product taps & bridging pipes.
- Brass water jacket drain tap.
- Product tap heights 22cm & 26cm from the base.
- Bottom Internal tap sits approximately 1 cm from the chamber base.
- Top & middle taps are product taps, bottom tap water jacket draining.
- Water jacket thermostat range – 30-100℃
- Cold start product to 85℃ approximately 60 minutes.
- Power 240v/2300w – AS/NZS31122011 240V 10amp complies with Australian Electrical Standards.
- The fastest heat up times for volume available on the market.
- Production time savings.
- Improved product quality & consistency.
- Safe and easy to use.
- Heat Control.
- Detailed user instructions.
- Easy to maintain.
- For use on a domestic 10 amp power point with safety switch.
- Chamber Thermometer to monitor product temperature.
- Fill water jacket with demineralised water – demineralised water is low cost and is purchased from supermarkets and hardware stores for around $4 for 5 litres, once filled is left in the unit and just topped up as required, demineralised water has no harmful minerals that tap or tank water contain and will protect internal components.
- Heat water jacket to desired temperature.
- Add product and heat to required temperature..
- Make Products.
units will have some marks from the manufacturing processes.
Reducing / Cleaning Straight Capping’s
Reducing and cleaning straight capping’s is essentially the same process as the cleaning wax guide below with one difference, clean water should not be added to the chamber as wax capping’s have enough honey to melt and separate between the bottom layer of honey and the top layer of clean beeswax.
The honey recovered from the capping’s is therefore just heated honey and not honey rich water and it has many uses, it is commonly used for sauces, cooking and making mead (fermentation).
Note: For pressed wax capping’s, please use the guide below.
Cleaning Wax – Dirty wax capping’s, old foundation and wax from previous cleans.
Add water first to the chamber, fill to just above the top tap outlet.
Add wax capping’s, old foundation and wax from previous cleans to the chamber.
Set thermostat temperature to between 65-75℃ for the water jacket. Do not exceed 80c as at these higher temperatures the wax will discolour.
To achieve best results, a slower melt time is preferred. Ideally run the unit at a lower temperature (65-70℃ for usually 8-10 hours for best results), this will allow the wax to just melt and gravity to separate the liquid layers at different densities. Water/Honey is heavier than wax, therefore wax will float to the top of the chamber. Any debris will tend to sit within the water or just below the wax line (between water and wax). Therefore DO NOT stir the contents after it has melted and separated.
Once everything has melted, separated and settled (Usually 8-10 hours for best results), before opening the taps, if there is any debris floating on top of the wax, carefully skim the debris off – taking care not to stir the contents of the chamber. Open the lowest chamber tap to drain off the honey rich water until you see the colour/viscosity change and wax starts to come out, close the bottom tap, the wax line should now be below the top chamber taps. Allow the contents that has just been drained too cool, any wax will solidify on top, this wax can be recovered and added to the next batch to be processed.
Note: Honey rich water is ideally used to make Mead!
Now move up to the top chamber tap, depending on the temperature that you have the unit set to, you may need to apply an electric hot air gun or hair drier to the outlet, this will allow any solid beeswax to melt within the tap. Use a small container to check if clean wax is coming out, if wax is still dirty allow to settle longer or drop the level further with bottom chamber tap.
Once wax is clean drain clean wax straight into a pouring jug or moulds until the clean wax is exhausted.
Repeat the process until all capping’s and old foundation have been used.
If there is a build-up of pollen or debris in the bottom of the chamber it is time to clean the unit out.
It is not recommended to clean brood comb in the unit as brood comb generally contains a lot of debris – specifically cacoons which can clog the tap.
De Candy Warming Honey
It is important to set the desired temperature and allow the unit to heat up to the set temperature you require before placing honey in the chamber and warming the honey. For larger models (25-35L) 10L and 20L buckets of candied honey can be gently lowered into the unit. Set the temperature to 60℃ and run for 24 hours. After which the honey will be completely liquefied within the bucket. Lower temperatures will take longer. Note: honey heated above 40c is not considered to be raw.
Water boils at 100℃, however it is not possible to achieve 100℃ product temperature with double boilers, the main reasons for this are ambient (room) temperature fighting to cool the unit body and heat loss from transference through the wall of the internal product chamber, for these reasons we recommend the units for products up to 90℃, it may be possible to achieve up to 95℃ if the unit body is insulated, the work area is not below 20℃ and extra heating time is added.
Double Boiling Method Explained
An electric double boiler means the unit has a water jacket around the outside of the product chamber providing a much larger heating surface, the water jacket protects the product from high heat that is produced by the electric element when it’s heating, the water jacket thermostat controls the heating process, once heated up product is placed into the product chamber and the heated water in the jacket melts/heats/emulsifies/separates depending on the product being used from the base and the sides to the desired temperature.
The product tap passes through the water jacket and is surrounded by hot water heating it.
Product is stirred periodically to stabilise temperature before pouring.
Product temperature is maintained by the water jacket thermostat allowing the user to spend time preparing for the final product.